Avignon, France

Last stop on our Paris River cruise with Viking.  And definitely not the least.  We were scheduled to visit the Pope's Palace on our morning tour and the amazing Roman aqueduct on the afternoon tour.

On our walk towards the Pope's Palace and just a short distance from where the ship docked, we visited the surviving arches of the Pont Saint-Bénéz or Pont d'Avignon, a medieval bridge spanning the Rhone (built between 1177 and 1185. This early bridge was destroyed forty years later in 1226).  The bridge was abandoned in the mid-17th century as the arches tended to collapse each time the Rhône flooded making it very expensive to maintain. Four arches and the gatehouse at the Avignon end of the bridge have survived.

The north side of the bridge with the Chapel of Saint Nicholas

Pope's Palace:  Between 1309 and 1377, during the Avignon Papacy, seven successive popes resided in Avignon (rather than Rome) and in 1348 Pope Clement VI bought the town from Joanna I of Naples. Papal control persisted until 1791 when during the French Revolution it became part of France.  This palace was also just a few steps from the ship across a busy thoroughfare.  Once you get into the area you lose yourself in the time period.

As we near this UNESCO World Heritage Site (designated in 1995 because of its architecture and importance during the 14th and 15th centuries), we can see details of the ancient wall surrounding the palace and enter into the gates of the old historic center.  After visiting this site it is  hard to believe that it was built in less than 20 years, these two popes completed most of the palace we see today.

The region around Avignon is very rich in limestone which is used for building material. For example, the current city walls, measuring 4,330 metres long, were built with the soft limestone abundant in the region.  You can see these walls in the upper picture that surround the old city.

Once a fortress and palace, the papal residence was a seat of Western Christianity during the 14th century. Six papal conclaves were held in the Palais.  The Palais is actually two joined buildings: the old palais of Benedict XII, which sits on the impregnable rock of Doms, and the new palais of Clement VI, the most extravagant of the Avignon popes.  Despite this, the Palais became obsolete when the papacy found it necessary to return to Rome. The hope of reuniting Latin and Orthodox Christians, along with the achievement of peace in the Papal States in Italy, made the case for returning stronger. Added to that was the strong conviction of both Urban V and Gregory XI that the seat of the papacy could only be the tomb of St Peter. Despite strong opposition from the Court of France and the College of Cardinals, both popes found the means to return to Rome, the first, on 30 April 1362, the second on 13 September 1370. This time, the return was absolute.

Although the Palais remained under papal control (along with the surrounding city and Comtat Venaissin) for over 350 years afterward, it gradually deteriorated despite a restoration in 1516. When the French Revolution broke out in 1789 it was already in a bad state when it was seized and sacked by revolutionary forces. In 1791 it became the scene of a massacre of counter-revolutionaries, whose bodies were thrown into the Tour des Latrines in the Palais Vieux.

The Palais was subsequently taken over by the Napoleonic French state for use as a military barracks and prison. Although it was further damaged by the military occupation, especially under the anti-clerical Third Republic when the remaining interior woodwork was cleared away for use of the structure as a stables – the frescos were covered over and largely destroyed – this ensured the shell of the building's physical survival. It was vacated in only 1906, when it became a national museum. It has been under virtually constant restoration ever since. (All this history makes sense to me now....traveling is so good for remembering history and understanding cultural stances and how complicated and influenced it can be.)

Anyway on to pictures of the palace as it stands today.  In one of the entrances, there were arches painted in black and white of weaponry (just unusual because it is in shades of black and white rather than color and features weapons rather than people or nature)

Through the tiered seating that was set up in the one of the grand patios of the palace you get a sense of how massive the patios and surrounding walls are.

Entering into the grand dining room that could seat 1000 people.

Looking back at the grand fireplace to help warm the stone walls in the dining room.  (also notice the stone bench by the windows

Tapestries adorned the wall and were created out of cardboard.  In fact here is a great description of the art display that we were treated to as well as visiting the great gothic structure itself:

From June 30, 2023, until January 7, 2024, the historic Palais des Papes palace in Avignon, France, plays host to visual artist Eva Jospin, inviting her to create a captivating installation named Palazzo within its confines. This expansive Gothic palace, acclaimed as the largest of its kind globally, serves as the backdrop for an enchanting cardboard-crafted installation composed of three monumental sculptures. The palace’s diverse rooms come alive with Jospin’s intricate works strategically placed to craft a mesmerizing journey for visitors. Guests are transported into a realm of dreams as they wander amidst the pieces, each artfully interacting with the historical and architectural essence of the papal residence. (from website - Designboom)

Tapestries also by Eva Jospin (yes, the bottom picture is one she did out of cardboard) in the Grand Dining room:

Detail so you can see that it is actually cardboard ... (You might still zoom in and out to see the corrugated cardboard)

Wall sitters.....

On to the kitchen where the meals were prepared for the throng in the dining room.  I liked the modern day chandelier but especially liked the open vent in the kitchen to let out all the smoke from the fires used to cook the repast.

The ironwork on the wall, supposedly to hold pots and pans, is also a creation of Eva Joslin.

I am inserting a professional picture of the kitchen chandelier, also one of Eva's creation, which shows wonderful detail ...looks like swirling stairways to heaven..  In fact, I just looked it up, she called this Empyrean and Balconies where Empyrean means "the empyrean domain where human will and God's will became as one".  So perfect as you gaze to the ceiling which vents open to the heavens.

And now to Eva Jospin's room size cardboard sculptures. The detailed pictures will help you see that this structure is actually corrugated cardboard through and through.  Feel free to zoom in on these pictures to see even more detail.  What an amazing imagination to create something like this out of our Amazon discards!!!!

 Picture of Eva Joslin at work on her cardboard sculptures with dremel or small jigsaw in hand.

Another interesting art piece that is not credited to Eva Joslin was this bas relief  of Christ carrying the cross.  I was particularly captivated by the expressions on the disciples' faces.

Here's a picture which I think will give you perspective on the size of this undertaking...remember, less than 20 years to build...incredible.

Outside this amazing structure we got a breather...

Ocean's Eleven group....we did not abandon "Papa"...he figured out that the tour was going in this direction and found a quiet moment.  (He does look a bit forlorn though, huh?)

See, we are right there...(Dave, Jan and Lee)

Bob, Dave, Jan and Lee

Afternoon tour, recommended by Kimberley and Nate in next blog....